Saturday, 6 July 2024

Embarking on an Antarctic Odyssey: A Journey to the Edge of the World (November 2023)



Our boat sailing to the Island

When I set out to visit every continent in 12 months in 2023, Antarctica wasn't even on my radar. It wasn't until a chance conversation in August that I realized my world tour would be incomplete without setting foot on the icy continent at the bottom of the globe. With only five months left in my journey, I scrambled to make it happen.

Little did I know that this last-minute addition would become the crown jewel of my travels, a journey that would challenge me, inspire me, and leave me forever changed.
I took this pic with my iPhone
The Gateway to the White Continent

My Antarctic odyssey began in Buenos Aires, where I caught a flight to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. As I boarded our expedition vessel, a 50-year-old ship with a storied past as a Cold War spy vessel, I couldn't help but feel a mix of excitement and trepidation.

Our ship was small compared to the massive cruise liners also headed south, but I would soon learn that its size was its greatest asset.
The infamous Drake Passage lived up to its reputation. For two and a half days, we rocked and rolled through some of the roughest seas on the planet. Meals became comical affairs as we tried to keep our plates from sliding off tables. Sleep was a challenge too - more than once I woke up on the floor, having been tossed from my bunk. But as we pushed through the discomfort, a camaraderie formed among the passengers. We were in this together, united in our quest to reach the last great wilderness.

A World of Ice and Wonder
When we finally caught sight of the Antarctic Peninsula, the seasickness and sleepless nights faded away. Nothing could have prepared me for the raw beauty that unfolded before us. Pristine white landscapes stretched as far as the eye could see, punctuated by towering icebergs in shades of blue I never knew existed. The silence was profound, broken only by the occasional crack of calving glaciers.
You have to see the blue from the ice in Antartica. Glacier ice is blue because the red (long wavelengths) part of white light is absorbed by ice and the blue (short wavelengths) light is transmitted and scattered.

Our days fell into a rhythm dictated by nature and opportunity. We'd wake early, eager to make the most of the 22 hours of daylight. Bundled up against the cold, we'd pile into Zodiac boats to explore the secluded bays and craggy shorelines. The wildlife encounters were beyond my wildest dreams. Penguins waddled comically along the shore, seemingly unfazed by our presence.

I was amazed to learn about the different species - Adélie, Chinstrap, Gentoo penguin, and even the elusive emperor penguins. Each had its own unique charm and personality.


Seals lounged on ice floes, lazily lifting their heads to observe us as we cruised by. But it was the whales that truly took my breath away. Never in my life had I seen so many. Humpbacks and fin whales breached the surface, their massive forms dwarfing our tiny boats. One afternoon, a curious minke whale approached so close I could see the barnacles on its skin. In those moments, I felt incredibly small yet deeply connected to the natural world.

The Unexpected Joys of Expedition Life
Life on our small ship was an adventure in itself. Our expedition leaders, a mix of scientists and seasoned adventurers, brought the landscape to life with their knowledge and passion. My bunkmate, an archaeologist, regaled me with tales of ancient civilizations and the mysteries still hidden beneath the ice. Our conversations, fueled by shared bottles of wine, often stretched late into the night - though with the perpetual daylight, it was hard to tell when one day ended and another began.

One of the highlights of our journey was landing on a previously untouched piece of shoreline. As we stepped onto the pristine snow, I was acutely aware that we were the first humans to ever set foot there. It was a humbling moment, a reminder of how vast and unexplored our planet still is.
The experience wasn't always comfortable. Our small ship meant tight quarters, shared bathrooms, and none of the luxuries you'd find on a cruise liner. But what we lacked in amenities, we made up for in authenticity and access. We were able to navigate narrow channels and make landings that the larger ships couldn't, truly immersing ourselves in the Antarctic environment.

A Transformative Experience

I decided to jump in the cold water in Antartica

As our journey came to an end and we turned back towards Ushuaia, I found myself changed. The raw beauty of Antarctica, the incredible wildlife encounters, and the sense of adventure had awakened something in me. I realized that true exploration isn't about ticking boxes on a list, but about pushing your boundaries and opening yourself up to the wonders of our world.
Heading back to Argentina 
My advice to anyone considering an Antarctic expedition? Do it, but choose wisely. If you want to truly experience the continent, opt for a smaller expedition vessel. Yes, the Drake Passage will be rougher and the accommodations more basic, but the rewards are immeasurable. You'll get closer to the wildlife, have more time on land, and come away with a deeper appreciation for this unique and fragile ecosystem.
Back in argentina

Welcome back to the continent of the humans

Antarctica may have been a last-minute addition to my world tour, but it ended up being the experience that defined my entire journey. It reminded me that sometimes the most unexpected adventures become the most meaningful. As I flew back to Buenos Aires, my heart full and my camera memory cards overflowing, I knew that a piece of me would forever remain in that icy wilderness at the bottom of the world.





My third hurricane in Mexico (July 4, 2024)

An imaginary look at what the hurricane might look like in Cancun

My first hurricane experience in Mexico was about three years ago. Picture this: I was in Playa del Carmen, bracing myself for a Category Three storm, which flirted with being a Four but then decided to settle down to a Two. Or was it a two? We were told a three and then a two. I think it made it as a three but slowed down tremendously before it settled. Kind of like when you expect a wild party, but everyone just ends up playing board games. Even so, the damage was no joke. Living right by the beach, my house took a beating – shattered windows, broken doors, and water everywhere.

Hurricane Delta (My very first hurricane experience) - Playa Del Carmen, Mexico

The streets were a mess – downed trees, flooded roads, the whole disaster movie scene. I couldn't believe it. "Nope," I thought, "not doing this again!" Right then and there, I decided to always get out of Mexico during hurricane seasons.

2 weeks after Delta, Hurricane Zeta landed - Mexico

But just as I was making that decision, boom! Hurricane Zeta hit us, only two weeks after Delta. I hadn't had enough time to leave, so I was caught in another hurricane. It was a real wake-up call to make sure I was somewhere safer next hurricane season.

 Another hurricane and this time as my welcome back party in Mexico


Now, let’s jump ahead to this year, 2024. I spent most of 2024 in Europe, blissfully ignoring the weather back in Mexico. To be honest, 2023 and the first half of 2024 has been all about globe-trotting for me. I spent last year and the first part of 2024 hopping from continent to continent – Africa, Europe, Australia, Asia, South America, North America, even Antarctica! – Oblivious to the weather that awaited me in Mexico, I was ecstatic to finally return after months of being away. My niece was joining me for her very first visit, and we were both buzzing with excitement as we landed in Monterrey, Mexico. Unbeknownst to us, there was a hurricane quietly brewing out at sea, slowly gaining strength and setting the stage for a rather damp welcome.

If I'd known about the impending storm, I might have lingered a bit longer in England. But hey, hindsight is 20/20, right? Despite the rain and wind whipping through Monterrey, we were lucky – the worst of the hurricane hadn't hit the city or country yet but it also wasn't the sunny Mexican adventure she had envisioned, but it made for a memorable start to her trip!

The skies looked unfavorable for a flight to Mexico, but the rain had stopped

After our soggy start in Monterrey, we escaped to Mexico City for a bit of calm before finally making it back to my new ‘home base’ in Cancun. And this is where the real story begins – the reason I wanted to write this blog in the first place. So, let's skip ahead to the day we finally got hit by the hurricane...

Happy Fourth of July (2024), everyone in the USA! While you were enjoying barbecues and fireworks, I was enjoying a different kind of show – the weather forecast. A hurricane was brewing, and it was making the news sound like the end of the world. My friend Akala and I had a good laugh about it on the phone, joking "What hurricane?" But this one was no joke.

Just the day before, it slammed into Jamaica as a Category Two hurricane, tragically taking two lives. It had been a Category Five out at sea, but thankfully lost some steam before reaching land. Still, a Category Two hurricane is nothing to sneeze at, kind of like expecting a monster movie and getting a thriller instead. It's a big downgrade, but it can still pack a punch.

All we could do was to be prepared and wait

Now, this hurricane has its sights set on Cancun, and it could even strengthen to a Category Four. That's rare for us – we usually dodge these monster storms. In fact, Cancun has only had a couple of category fives or fours in recorded history. So, while I wasn't right on the beach this time (thankful!), I was still keeping a close eye on the forecast.

It is the waiting game now

It was 11:00 PM on July 4th, 2024, and I knew what was coming: another hurricane party. These storms always seemed to have a flair for the dramatic, showing up fashionably late like they were channeling some vibes from my motherland, Africa, where time is more of a suggestion than a rule.

The rain had started with a light drizzle, nothing compared to the last hurricane bash we'd weathered. I'd stayed up until 2 AM for that one, and the second I finally closed my eyes, BAM! The power went out. It was like a surprise visit from a rowdy friend – no warning, just a sudden mess to clean up. This time, at least the lights were still on, and the wind hadn't started its wild dance yet. But it was the calm before the storm, I knew it. Hurricanes are like that one friend who always stumbles in late, completely trashed, and ready to turn your world upside down.

Everywhere, businesses were getting ready and the beaches were being closed

Being prepared is all you can do before a hurricane

When the hurricane would finally show up was anyone's guess, but that didn't really matter. The important thing was to be prepared, just like you would for any epic party. Stock up on water, charge your phones and power banks – the essentials. Last time around, I couldn't even use the "I'm in Mexico with no power" excuse for missing meetings. I ended up crammed into a noisy cafe with a generator, trying to conduct business amidst the chaos.

Power outages are a given during hurricanes, so it's wise to scout out those fancy coffee shops or hotels with generators beforehand. You might need them to get some work done. And as for your home, prepare for a potential flood. Water has a mind of its own and will take over any space it can. Unplug everything – you never know how high the water might rise or what kind of damage this storm will bring.

Beryl finally showed up and left

Finally, Beryl made its grand entrance in Cancun early on the 5th of July. Luckily for us, the winds had calmed down considerably by the time it reached us. The hurricane had gone from a Category 3 to a Category 2 – like a student who aced every question but one and missed out on the A grade by a hair and ended up as a B+. Imagine that! Just one mile per hour less, and we'd have been dealing with a whole different beast.

Beryl started its journey near Tulum, cruising along at 15 miles per hour with winds of 110 miles per hour – just one mile per hour shy of a Category 3. Even though it's passed through Cancun now, the lingering rain and wind still make it feel like the party's not quite over.

Next up, it's Texas' turn to get acquainted with Beryl. Let's hope they don't get more than a Category 2 soaking. Experiencing a near - Category 3 really makes you appreciate how much difference a single mile per hour can make. Thankfully, Category 2 is manageable and although a change of wind could have changed things, I am happy it didn’t and we are through it for now.

My Experience

The night of the "hurricane party" arrived with a bang, the rain pouring down and the wind howling outside my window. It felt like a typical stormy night, nothing too out of the ordinary. But then, I woke up early in the morning to the sound of furious winds, a true hurricane awakening. It was 4 AM, and I knew sleep was out of the question.

The news was reporting that the hurricane had downgraded to a Category 2, but it was still hitting Cancun and the entire Yucatan Peninsula hard. It's crazy to think that this major tourist destination was being pummeled by a storm. Imagine saving up for a dream vacation in Cancun, Tulum, or Playa del Carmen, only to be stuck in a hotel basement, wondering what to do next. It's a wild scenario, right?

As you can see in the first image, the storm was massive, but as it passed by, the northern part weakened significantly. That's what saved us from the heavy rainfall we were expecting.

Here in Cancun, it was only 7 AM, and the storm was predicted to last until 9 AM. But, as with any hurricane, things could change quickly. And they did. The power went out around 8 AM, but it was a bit of a relief since the water had already been cut earlier. The rain hadn't stopped, and even though they said it was slowing down, I could just imagine the flooded streets outside. I hadn't braved the storm yet, but I knew it must be a mess out there.

I definitely underestimated this hurricane. Just yesterday, on the 4th of July, it was a picture-perfect day with clear blue skies and beach weather. Then Beryl came along and ruined the party. It's apparently the earliest Category 5 hurricane on record, which is just insane. I am just happy I didn’t get to experience its maximum strength.

So, yeah, I guess I invited this hurricane to my peaceful day without realizing how intense it would get. It's like having an uninvited guest who trashes your house. Even though the storm has weakened a bit, I heard it's going to pick up speed again once it leaves Cancun and heads for Texas. I just hope everyone there stays safe and everything turns out okay.

 The Aftermath

The roads were still covered in water a few hours after it came and left

You will think with Beryl gone, we will be okay, but the rain kept pouring. It is 2:00AM on Saturday morning (July 6, 2024) and I am sitting here typing this blog and it is pouring like crazy almost like Beryl forgot something and was back to collect. I guess we will have to deal with this rain and flooding for the next day or two. I just hope its next destination be it Texas or where else, is not bad and it doesn’t take any lives like it has done in other destinations since it started.

Update: It's Saturday, July 7th, 2024, and Cancun is back in full swing, like nothing ever happened. I'm always amazed at how quickly people here recover after a hurricane. Walking through the city, you'd never know a storm had just ripped through. The sun's shining, the streets are dry, and the air even feels cleaner and fresher somehow. It's a bit surreal, but I'm not complaining!

I know Beryl landed only as a Category 2, but the fact that everyone bounced back so fast is still impressive. It's like a magic trick – one minute you're in the middle of a hurricane, and the next, everything is back to normal. It's one of the things I love about this place – the resilience and the ability to find joy even after a storm.

Here's the kicker:

With all our fancy technology and gadgets, why can't we just redirect these monstrous hurricanes? We can make it rain in the desert and harness the power of the sun, yet these storms remain stubbornly out of our control. Imagine the lives and property we could save if we could manage these natural forces.


But then again, maybe it's a bit unsettling to imagine humans playing God with hurricanes. We've already messed with nature enough, often as a knee-jerk reaction to crises. And let's be real, the folks who often bear the brunt of these storms are the most vulnerable. There's a chance those in power might not feel the same urgency to change things if it doesn't directly affect them.

But should we even try to control nature's fury? We've all seen how messing with Mother Nature can backfire in unexpected ways. Maybe it's best to respect her power and let things run their natural course.

It's amazing that we can track hurricanes so precisely, watching them form and move, predicting their paths, even if they sometimes throw us a curveball. But for all our knowledge, we're still powerless to stop or redirect them. And honestly, I hope it stays that way. Imagine if a country could create or control tsunamis and hurricanes – they could use them as weapons, directing them at their enemies. It's a scary thought. And who knows, maybe we're already at that point and we just don't know it yet. It's a chilling possibility.

Thursday, 4 July 2024

Costa Rica (May 2021)

I have another blog about this country. I just love this country and every chance I have to fly there, I take. It is just a beautiful country that has so much to offer.

Watching a movie in the pool at my hotel in Los Sueños
trying to work in paradise 
I should just have a blog on sunsets because it seems like I follow sunsets because I just think they are magical and will stay in a horrible place with amazing sunsets.


Surfing in Costa Rica
My favorite thing to do in Costa Rica 🇨🇷 was surfing. I went surfing 🏄‍♀️ every single day I was there...
The water was cold this day and I was not feeling like surfing but I had to. I had committed to surfing and I had to.