Embarking on an Antarctic Odyssey: A Journey to the Edge of the World (November 2023)

Our boat sailing to the Island

When I set out to visit every continent in 12 months in 2023, Antarctica wasn't even on my radar. It wasn't until a chance conversation in August that I realized my world tour would be incomplete without setting foot on the icy continent at the bottom of the globe. With only five months left in my journey, I scrambled to make it happen.

Little did I know that this last-minute addition would become the crown jewel of my travels, a journey that would challenge me, inspire me, and leave me forever changed.

I took this pic with my iPhone

The Gateway to the White Continent

My Antarctic odyssey began in Buenos Aires, where I caught a flight to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. As I boarded our expedition vessel, a 50-year-old ship with a storied past as a Cold War spy vessel, I couldn't help but feel a mix of excitement and trepidation.

Our ship was small compared to the massive cruise liners also headed south, but I would soon learn that its size was its greatest asset.

The infamous Drake Passage lived up to its reputation. For two and a half days, we rocked and rolled through some of the roughest seas on the planet. Meals became comical affairs as we tried to keep our plates from sliding off tables. Sleep was a challenge too - more than once I woke up on the floor, having been tossed from my bunk. But as we pushed through the discomfort, a camaraderie formed among the passengers. We were in this together, united in our quest to reach the last great wilderness.

A World of Ice and Wonder

When we finally caught sight of the Antarctic Peninsula, the seasickness and sleepless nights faded away. Nothing could have prepared me for the raw beauty that unfolded before us. Pristine white landscapes stretched as far as the eye could see, punctuated by towering icebergs in shades of blue I never knew existed. The silence was profound, broken only by the occasional crack of calving glaciers.

You have to see the blue from the ice in Antartica. Glacier ice is blue because the red (long wavelengths) part of white light is absorbed by ice and the blue (short wavelengths) light is transmitted and scattered.

Our days fell into a rhythm dictated by nature and opportunity. We'd wake early, eager to make the most of the 22 hours of daylight. Bundled up against the cold, we'd pile into Zodiac boats to explore the secluded bays and craggy shorelines. The wildlife encounters were beyond my wildest dreams. Penguins waddled comically along the shore, seemingly unfazed by our presence.

I was amazed to learn about the different species - Adélie, Chinstrap, Gentoo penguin, and even the elusive emperor penguins. Each had its own unique charm and personality.

Seals lounged on ice floes, lazily lifting their heads to observe us as we cruised by. But it was the whales that truly took my breath away. Never in my life had I seen so many. Humpbacks and fin whales breached the surface, their massive forms dwarfing our tiny boats. One afternoon, a curious minke whale approached so close I could see the barnacles on its skin. In those moments, I felt incredibly small yet deeply connected to the natural world.

The Unexpected Joys of Expedition Life

Life on our small ship was an adventure in itself. Our expedition leaders, a mix of scientists and seasoned adventurers, brought the landscape to life with their knowledge and passion. My bunkmate, an archaeologist, regaled me with tales of ancient civilizations and the mysteries still hidden beneath the ice. Our conversations, fueled by shared bottles of wine, often stretched late into the night - though with the perpetual daylight, it was hard to tell when one day ended and another began.

One of the highlights of our journey was landing on a previously untouched piece of shoreline. As we stepped onto the pristine snow, I was acutely aware that we were the first humans to ever set foot there. It was a humbling moment, a reminder of how vast and unexplored our planet still is.

The experience wasn't always comfortable. Our small ship meant tight quarters, shared bathrooms, and none of the luxuries you'd find on a cruise liner. But what we lacked in amenities, we made up for in authenticity and access. We were able to navigate narrow channels and make landings that the larger ships couldn't, truly immersing ourselves in the Antarctic environment.

A Transformative Experience

I decided to jump in the cold water in Antartica

As our journey came to an end and we turned back towards Ushuaia, I found myself changed. The raw beauty of Antarctica, the incredible wildlife encounters, and the sense of adventure had awakened something in me. I realized that true exploration isn't about ticking boxes on a list, but about pushing your boundaries and opening yourself up to the wonders of our world.

Heading back to Argentina 

My advice to anyone considering an Antarctic expedition? Do it, but choose wisely. If you want to truly experience the continent, opt for a smaller expedition vessel. Yes, the Drake Passage will be rougher and the accommodations more basic, but the rewards are immeasurable. You'll get closer to the wildlife, have more time on land, and come away with a deeper appreciation for this unique and fragile ecosystem.

Back in argentina

Welcome back to the continent of the humans

Antarctica may have been a last-minute addition to my world tour, but it ended up being the experience that defined my entire journey. It reminded me that sometimes the most unexpected adventures become the most meaningful. As I flew back to Buenos Aires, my heart full and my camera memory cards overflowing, I knew that a piece of me would forever remain in that icy wilderness at the bottom of the world.